Pink cottages, Czech lessons, and the relentless force of change in the heart of the Carpathians. You have reached a premium content area of TOL. To read this entire article please login if you are already a TOL subscriber. Not a subscriber? Subscribe today for access to: Full access to the website, including premium articles videos, country reports and searchable archives (containing over 25,000 articles). You can subscribe here to gain access to the entire website.