VELKE SLEMENCE, Slovakia--Friday afternoon. The old settlers in Velke Slemence, a village on the border with Ukraine, move around slowly on bicycles. Unusually small, multi-ethnic-looking dogs cross their paths. Across the border, in the Ukrainian village of Malije Slemenci, it looks as if a war has just ended.

You have reached a premium content area of TOL. To read this entire article please login if you are already a TOL subscriber.

Not a subscriber?

Annual membership costs only $55 per year for individuals ($33 for students) and organizational subscriptions start at $141 per year.

Subscribe today for access to:
Full access to the website, including premium articles videos, country reports and searchable archives (containing over 25,000 articles).

You can subscribe here to gain access to the entire website.